featured hotel
It would be an exaggeration to say Nice is lost in time, and a deceit to suggest that the city's old quarter (Vieux Nice) remains untouched by tourism. However several big truths remain - old Nice still charms in its remaining quiet, mysterious spots. Lounging the day away on a blue striped awning chair is the most elegant way to enjoy the French Riviera. And most undeniable of all - the cuisine Nissarde magically combines French and Italian influences to create something truly special.
Nice makes an excellent base to enjoy and to explore the French Riviera and Provence. Accessible by air and rail, centrally located for a multitude of day trips, and more affordable than Cannes - Nice has plenty to offer. And a stay at the Hotel Gounod offers fin de siècle elegance in a Belle Époque building, with the chance of a quiet room with balcony overlooking greenery.
Ideally situated in a quiet location near the center of Nice, the Hotel Gounod is a few short blocks from the sea front. The comfortable rooms are traditionally but tastefully decorated. Most of the rooms have a small terrace or balcony, and all are equipped with bathroom or shower, radio, satellite TV, telephone. Impressively given the age of the building, the rooms have individual air conditioning. Guests may use the facilities at the nearby sister hotel that include a swimming pool, Jacuzzi, restaurant, and bar.
Dining Tip: The restaurant Merenda has no phone, and thus two visits are required - one to make a reservation (4 rue Terrasse), and a second to dine. Don't be put off, as it is well worth the effort. Forsaking his chef's crown at Nice's famous Chantecler, Dominique Le Stanc opened this tiny bistro that serves sublime cuisine. The daily menu offers a symphony of Mediterranean gastronomy. Le Stanc never knows what he's going to serve until he goes to the market. Look for specials on a chalkboard. Perhaps you'll find stuffed cabbage, fried zucchini flowers, or oxtail flavored with fresh oranges. Lamb from the Sisteron is cooked until it practically falls from the bone. Raw artichokes are paired with a salad of mâche. The restaurant is small, seating is close, and service is brisk but personable.
Dining Tip #2: La Table Alziari (4 rue François Zanin), owned by the family that produces the region's best-known olive oil (in the famous blue-and-yellow can) with a pleasant outside dining setting. The food is very good - sample the unbelievable broiled sardines (stuffed with chard) and the chickpea frites.
Reading tip: Epitaph for a Spy by Eric Ambler - An expat language teacher stops in a village near Nice during his return to Paris. An amateur photographer, he drops off a roll of film at the local druggist for development. When he returns for his photographs he's unexpectedly placed under arrest by the French authorities. His film mysteriously contains photos of a top secret nature - and he can offer no explanation of how or why.
Lounge Chairs, Mediterranean Cote De Azur, Nice, France Photographic Print
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